Author Archives: gray_ealingvets

Choosing a pedigree cat

siamese cat

Siamese kitten

  • Most people with cats have ordinary ‘ moggies ‘  or domestic short haired cats to give them their full name. However if you are looking for a pedigree cat you may want to do a bit of research before making a choice.  Pedigree breeds have different personalities, varying activity levels, and there can be a large variation in adult weight and size.  Long haired cats generally shed more hair and will require more grooming.

Examples of individual breed traits include

  • Persian cats may be prone to weeping eyes, and snuffly noses and may need regular face cleaning.
  • Bengal cats tend to be nervous types and may not be suited to households with children.
  • Siamese cats can be quite vocal.
  • Maine coon cats can grow to be very large ( in some cases double the size of an average cat!)

Always go to a breeder for your pedigree cat, and make sure you see the mother as well as the kitten so that you get some idea of what they may grow into and their personality.  Never buy from a pet shop or a website, as you cannot be sure of their origins.

Tick borne disease in dogs and tick treatments

tick

Tick borne diseases

At the present time, the risk of your pet picking up any disease from ticks in the London area is still  low.  Lyme disease can be spread to pets and people from ticks, but we have not seen any cases of pets picking up this disease whilst living in the London area to date. However we are aware that Lyme disease may be present in ticks in Richmond park,  and may be present in other parks particularly where deer are present, and so we do recommend tick treatments in these areas.

 

  • A new tick borne disease called Babesiosis which uptil now had not been found in the UK,  has recently been reported to have been found in four dogs in Harlow, Essex  that had not travelled abroad.  It can cause a severe anaemia, which can be fatal. The risk of picking up any disease in the London area remains very low at the present time, but we will monitor for any changes in the situation, and will post again if this changes.

 

  • If you see a tick on your pet- we suggest removing them with an O’Tom tick twister which you can purchase from the surgery, which slides under the body of the tick and by twisting causes the tick to release its grasp on the skin. You should not pull them out with tweezers as this can leave the head in the skin which may cause a reaction. If you would like to use other tick prevention/ killing products with or without Advocate or Stronghold, the most effective options are the Seresto collar for cats and dogs lasting 7 months, Bravecto tablet lasting 2-3 months for dogs only , or Advantix spot on monthly for dogs.

 

tick remover for dog and cat

O’Tom Tick twister

Microchipping – law changes

  • From April 6th 2016 all dogs must be microchipped and registered on a commercial database, by 8 weeks of age. Further if a dog’s ownership is transferrred, the owner has a further duty to register the microchip with the new owner.

 

  • Although there is no requirement in law at the present time, we also recommend microchipping all cats.

 

  • A microchip is roughly the size of a grain of rice and is placed under the skin between the shoulder blades. The procedure  is very quick (only taking a few seconds) . The microchip contains a 15 digit unique number that will be registered on a national database, together with the owner’s details. It is not a GPS tracker device. It does however ensure permanent identification for your pet, and the number is easily read  in seconds  by passing a reader device over the skin .

 

  • This will provide many benefits especially in re-uniting injured pets and strays with their owners. Approximately 126000 stray dogs were handled by UK authorities in 2010-2011 and 52% were unable to be returned to their owners as they were unidentifiable.

Kitten care- training, feeding, vaccinating, fleas

 

 

  • Feeding– try to continue the same food that the breeder was feeding at least in the first few days. You may then mix in a new kitten food if you would like to change it over the next few days. Kitten food will have all the nutrients and vitamins they require, and vitamin supplements are not needed. If your kitten develops diarrhoea, you should stop the kitten food and feed boiled chicken or fish for a couple of days. Cats do not need milk once they are eating kitten food and it can cause diarrhoea. Fresh tap water should be available at all times. Continue feeding 3x daily until 6 months old, and then 2x daily.  Dry food is better for your cats teeth as they get older and may be more convenient in warmer weather than wet food, but a mix of wet and dry may be offered.

 

  • Worming– most kittens will have worms which have been passed from their mum. They will need worming when acquired ( usually around 8-9 weeks of age), with either  tablets or more commonly a spot on treatment from the vet.

 

 

  • Vaccinations should be given to protect your kitten from airborn viruses such as cat flu, and also cat enteritis ( diarrhoea). Leukaemia vaccination is also  usually included, and is recommended for any cat that will go outdoors. Yearly vaccination boosters are required to maintain their immunity.

 

 

  • Training kittens is not as easy as for dogs- cats are just more independent ! However they should be provided with cat scratching posts, and should have regular play with toys. A piece of paper rolled up into a ball can give a lot of fun !  Avoid playing with cotton thread or wool as they are dangerous if swallowed. If they are badly behaved with biting an scratching, do not tell them off as they won’t understand and it may make them fearful. Just ignore them by leaving the room or by putting them in an area by themselves.

 

 

  • Flea treatment should be used regularly particularly for outdoor cats ( but indoor cats may also pick up fleas, possibly brought in on clothing, or by other pets). We generally recommend monthly spot on treatment with Stronghold ( which also treats the common worms -roundworm), but flea injections given every 6 months are also available. Flea collars and most flea treatments from supermarkets are ineffective, and flea treatments from the vet are far more effective in preventing flea infestations occurring.

 

 

For further information on kitten and cat care see our blogs  on

 

 

How to stop kittens and cats scratching furniture

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house

How to train your kitten to play without biting

Choosing a kitten – top ten tips

Cat carriers- how to get your kitten or cat to enjoy going in

 

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house!

cat litter 1

 

 

  • Why do cats urinate or toilet outside of their litter tray?

A common misconception is that cats may be punishing you as their owner, for leaving them alone for too long. Cats do not do this, there will always be another reason.

 

  • Medical Problems

Cystitis causes an increased urgency, but normally with blood in the urine. Kidney problems, thyroid problems may cause your pet to drink more and so need to urinate more.

 

  • Cat litter box problems-


 

1-Cats may not like using a soiled litter tray,  clean it out frequently. Do not use detergents containing ammonia in the box as to the cat it may smell like cat urine ( which contains ammonia).

 

2-If the sides of the box are too high, an elderly cat may struggle to get into it, or a small kitten may have difficulty.

 

3-The type of litter used

Finer clumping litter or coarse non clumping litter may be preferred by an individual cat. Try different types of litter

Avoid using scented litter. Most cats prefer non-scented litter.

 

 

4-The location of the litter box

 

Avoid placing the litter tray in a noisy, busy or dark area.

If another cat, dog, or human scares your cat when she’s in the box, or attacks her as she leaves, she may not want to use the litter box.

 

 

5-Cats that do not want to use the litter tray usually toilet on different surfaces. You may find  urine and/or faeces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the severity of your cat’s aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but intermittently.

 

 

  • Inappropriate Site Preferences

Your cat may prefer using another surface, for instance carpets- and if so would not use a tiled bathroom floor. Alternatively your cat may choose to use the same inappropriate site – likely due to not wanting to use the litter tray. Unfortunately a medical problem such as cystitis may lead on to another problem such as preferring to use another type of surface.

 

  • Urine Spraying

If your cat rubs with his cheek, or scratches a surface, they are leaving their scent on the area. Similarly cats will sometimes spray small amounts of urine to leave their scent. This marks out their territory.

 

When cats spray it is  usually  on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don’t crouch down to spray (as they do to urinate), but lift the tail which quivers, leaving a small patch  of urine, often in the same places in the house.  Un-neutered males and sometimes, un-spayed females spray most commonly, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with multiple cats (particularly more than 7) the likelyhood of spraying is markedly increased.

 

Cats often spray when if their territory is threatened, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when neighbourhood cats come into their garden or house. New furniture and carpet smells may induce spraying behaviour.  Cats also may spray if their routine is altered, such as a significant reduction in food availability.

 

 

  • My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
    The longer the cat has had the problem, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them until you can be sure which one is causing the problem. If it is a faecal soiling problem,  you can feed one cat small pieces ( 5mm) of a brightly colored non-toxic child’s crayon that will show up in the faeces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to find out if it is spraying or normal urinating. You could set up  a video camera when you’re not around, if you don’t see your cat in the act.

 

 

You should always take your cat to the vet, as soon as you have noticed a problem, so that they can rule out medical causes of the abnormal behaviour.

 

If there is no medical problem, then the following may help-

 

  • Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates?  You could change your litter to match the surface. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put apiece of carpet in her litter tray. If she likes smooth, shiny surfaces, try putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Gradually add more litter.
  • Is there a certain location she prefers? . Try placing a litter tray in her preferred location. Once she regularly uses it, gradually move the box  a few inches a day back to the original location. Stop moving the tray if she stops using it;  move it back to the spot where she last used it, then gradually begin moving it again.
  • If you have multiple pets, your pet may be afraid of being attacked in or near the litter tray. If you are using a covered litter tray, try using an uncovered one that gives her a better view all around. Make sure that it is positioned so that there are multiple exits for your pet, and palce multiple litter trays around the house ( ideally one per cat plus one extra one).
  • Make sure the litter tray is regularly cleaned, – if your cat eliminates near the box he may not like the smell or the type of litter, and if you change the type of litter do so gradually over a few days.

 

 

The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat’s point of view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own.

 

  • How can I stop my cat from spraying?
    Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. Firstly your cat should be neutered. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, you can try using Feliway spray around the doors and windows to mask the scent of other cats. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape.

 

 

Increasing play with your cat may help, and introduce any new diets gradually.

 

Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated, each with their own safe area or room, and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.

 

Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Feliway, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions., and this may reduce spraying.

 

  • What about drug therapy?
    Spraying may be responsive to certain anti-anxiety drugs . However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in conjunction with environmental changes.

 

  • What can I use to clean my  carpets, sofa, and other household items?
    Cats often toilet or spray areas previously impregnated with their scent. So cleaning is important and should be performed as soon as possible.  The smell needs to be neutralised as well as cleaning the area. Washing powder can be used to clean and deodorise, but  avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they can smell like urine to cats.

 

  • Other Suggestions

 

 

  • A sheet or two of  plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper,  may  discourage your cat from entering a solied area.
  • You could try placing food bowls or toys in the area that is being toileted.
  • You may be able to prevent access to a room by closing doors.
  • It you catch your cat  in the act of soiling you could shake a jar of coins to startle him, and so deter him. This is only useful if it is done DURING the act of soiling.
  • Never shout or hit your cat- this may actually make things worse by scaring him.

 

 

 

How to  prevent litter box problems

 

1. Choosing an appropriate litter and box

 

  • Most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter, at a depth of one to two inches.
  • Young kittens, elderly cats, and cats with mobility problems need boxes with low sides.
  • Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes.
  • Most cats prefer an uncovered box that lets odors escape and allows a 360-degree view of their surroundings.
  • Have as many litter boxes as cats in the house-plus one additional one.

 

 

2. Choosing a good litter box location

 

  • Most cats prefer a location that is quiet, private, separate from their feeding area, and easily accessible 24 hours a day.
  • Do not place the litter box up or down stairs if your cat has trouble climbing.
  • Place multiple boxes in different areas of the house.

 

 

3. Keeping the box clean

 

  • Remove faeces and soiled litter daily and add clean litter as needed.
  • To clean the box, scrub it with a gentle detergent, dry it, and refill with clean litter. Litter should be changed often enough so that it looks and smells dry and clean. The more cats using the box, the more often this will need to be done.
  • Change old boxes that smell or are cracked.

 

 

Breaking a bad habit can take a while and may require patience. However it is generally worthwhile making an appointment to check your cat has not got any medical conditions that may be aggravating the problem.

 

Cat carriers- your cat can enjoy it !

cat vet in Ealing

 

  • Many people will know how difficult and stressful it can be sometimes to get your cat into a basket.    So is it a good idea to bring your basket out the night before a visit to the vets to “get your cat used to it”. The answer is a definite NO.  This will probably result in your cat hiding away. The problem is that cats often take quite a bit of time to adjust to something new.  A trip to the loft, or cellar to get the basket, and the noise of the basket door being opened can all be associated in the cats mind with a bad memories of previous trips, and can result in your cat becoming more anxious.

 

  • So what can you do to make the experience easier for all involved ?

 

  • To get your cat used to the basket is going to take some weeks.  The basket should be left open in the kitchen, near any feeding bowls. Some really good treats should be left near the door of the basket ( and nowhere else). Once your cat has got used to eating treats from near the door of the basket ( at least a week but may take longer) then start putting some treats inside the carrier for your cat to retrieve.  This needs to be a long term plan , if possible so that your cat starts to associate the basket with pleasant memories of tasty treats.

 

  • If you don’t have time to go through this process before a visit to the vets or the cattery, you can use a spray called Feliway  (containing cat pheromones or scent) which can help your cat feel calmer and less stressed  whilst in the basket. You should also place a blanket or towel from home in the carrier to reassure them.

 

  • Top loading baskets may be easier to lift your cat into and out of then end opening baskets. Yourbasket should be big enough for the size of your cat (there is a surprising variety in normal adult size and weight of cats ranging from 3.5- 8kg).  A towel to cover the basket  may be helpful to stop your cat becoming more anxious after seeing other cats and dogs in the surgery.