Author Archives: gray_ealingvets

Rabbit care

Feeding your pet rabbit

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Rabbit with overgrown teeth

Rabbit with overgrown teeth

One of the commonest problems we see with rabbits is related to their teeth. This can often be diet related, so what is the correct diet to feed?

Hay, meadow grass and vegetables, with a small amount of pelleted rabbit food is the ideal diet for your bunny. As a rough guide timothy based hay mixed with other hay should be offered ad lib – as this will help wear down your rabbits teeth. 1 cup of varied vegetables and or edible plants, and 25gms of a pelleted (not muesli) commercial diet per kg body weight (1 tablespoon 2x daily for an average 2.5kg adult rabbit). We always recommend pelleted rabbit food not muesli as your rabbit may become become fussy and pick out the bits they don’t want to eat but with pellets all the goodness is included in each pellet.

 

We recommend a varied diet to include green leafy foods and vegetables, such as cabbage, chard, parsley, watercress, broccoli, basil, carrot, brambles, and dandelions. All of these foods should be washed before being fed to your rabbit. Fruits should be avoided as they are very sugary. Always ensure that fresh water is available at all times. In the summer you can put their water bottle in the fridge overnight and give it to them in the morning and it will keep cool on a hot summers day.

 

Their teeth, unlike ours, grow continuously, and wear down during the grinding and chewing of grass and hay. If your bunny eats only commercial rabbit food, they will not wear down their teeth correctly and are much more likely to develop dental problems, which can be painful and require lifelong treatment.

www.youngvets.co.uk

Kitten care- first steps

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kitten vets

 

Once you have decided on a kitten and are ready to take it home, there are some essential items that need to be prepared first:

Food: A good brand of kitten food (biscuits or pouches) should be fed and we personally recommend the Science Plan food. Kittens must have access to fresh water at all times. Kittens who have been weaned do not require milk (even though they may really like it!). Cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and should be avoided.

Food and water bowls: Bowls should be cleaned daily.

Litter: The cat litter should be non-clumping and non-toxic as kittens have a tendency to chew and occasionally try to eat the litter.

Litter tray: Trays can either be open or covered, but should be placed in the room where the kitten will spend most of its time. Scoop out soiled litter daily and completely clean litter trays regularly. If you have more than one cat ideally there should be at least one litter tray per cat.

Bed/ blanket: These are not essential but most cats prefer a comfortable place to sleep that they can call their own.

Toys: Toys are very important to keep your kitten entertained. Avoid toys that are easily broken as these can cause a choking hazard. To avoid accidents, supervise your kitten during any play.

Scratching post: Cats and kittens need to scratch and scratching posts can be an ideal way of preventing the furniture from being used.

Cat carrier: This is essential for safely transporting your kitten. End opening plastic carriers, or top opening wire carriers are suitable.

 

Preparing the area

 

 

One room should be designated for the kitten to spend its first few days. This room should be large enough to include all of the above. It may be helpful to bring something with the scent of the previous owner on it, such as a blanket or toy. This familiar smell can help the kitten relax.

Feliway is a product that can help settle your kitten into a new environment. It can be purchased from the surgery as a spray or plug in diffuser which has replicated pheromones (cat scent) that cats would leave naturally, and is used to calm and comfort cats during stressful times. All cats think it is their own scent, so it can also help if you already have another cat in your house.

Before the arrival of a new kitten, every home should be checked for potential hazards. Kittens are very curious and will explore their new environment by jumping, climbing and sometimes chewing! We recommend checking the following hazards:

 

 

 

  • Oven Hobs (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Washing machines and tumble dryers (check kitten has not climbed in before turning on)
  • Irons (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Electric wires (kittens may chew)
  • Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
  • Sewing materials (kittens love to play with string, but if eaten it will cause a serious problem)
  • Any small objects like pins, etc (may cause a problem if eaten)

 

 

 

Many everyday items found in the home can be potentially toxic to kittens and cats, and need to be avoided. Examples of  toxins include:

 

 

 

  • Pesticides and weed-killers
  • Rat-bait and slug poison
  • Antifreeze
  • Paint
  • Certain plants – Holly, Lillies, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Poinsettia, Ivy and Sweet Pea
  • Paracetemol and other human medications
  • Tea-tree oil
  • Flea spot-on products for Dogs that contain Permethrin

 

 

 

If your kitten has eaten or come into contact with any of the above products, please contact us immediately.

 

 

Finally once your kitten is settled into your home, sit back and enjoy the show -they’ll be climbing the curtains in no time, and post your cute pictures on our facebook page here  !

Taking your kitten home.

Taking your kitten home

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What to do once your new kitten is home

kitten vets

Once you have decided on a kitten and are ready to take it home, there are some essential items that need to be prepared first:

Food: A good brand of kitten food (biscuits or pouches) should be fed and we personally recommend the Science Plan food. Kittens must have access to fresh water at all times. Kittens who have been weaned do not require milk (even though they may really like it!). Cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and should be avoided.

Food and water bowls: Bowls should be cleaned daily.

Litter: The cat litter should be non-clumping and non-toxic as kittens have a tendency to chew and occasionally try to eat the litter.

Litter tray: Trays can either be open or covered, but should be placed in the room where the kitten will spend most of its time. Scoop out soiled litter daily and completely clean litter trays regularly. If you have more than one cat ideally there should be at least one litter tray per cat.

Bed/ blanket: These are not essential but most cats prefer a comfortable place to sleep that they can call their own.

Toys: Toys are very important to keep your kitten entertained. Avoid toys that are easily broken as these can cause a choking hazard. To avoid accidents, supervise your kitten during any play.

Scratching post: Cats and kittens need to scratch and scratching posts can be an ideal way of preventing the furniture from being used.

Cat carrier: This is essential for safely transporting your kitten. End opening plastic carriers, or top opening wire carriers are suitable.

 

Preparing the area

One room should be designated for the kitten to spend its first few days. This room should be large enough to include all of the above. It may be helpful to bring something with the scent of the previous owner on it, such as a blanket or toy. This familiar smell can help the kitten relax.

Feliway is a product that can help settle your kitten into a new environment. It can be purchased from the surgery as a spray or plug in diffuser which has replicated pheromones (cat scent) that cats would leave naturally, and is used to calm and comfort cats during stressful times. All cats think it is their own scent, so it can also help if you already have another cat in your house.

Before the arrival of a new kitten, every home should be checked for potential hazards. Kittens are very curious and will explore their new environment by jumping, climbing and sometimes chewing! We recommend checking the following hazards:

 

  • Oven Hobs (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Washing machines and tumble dryers (check kitten has not climbed in before turning on)
  • Irons (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Electric wires (kittens may chew)
  • Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
  • Sewing materials (kittens love to play with string, but if eaten it will cause a serious problem)
  • Any small objects like pins, etc (may cause a problem if eaten)

 

Many everyday items found in the home can be potentially toxic to kittens and cats, and need to be avoided. Examples of  toxins include:

 

  • Pesticides and weed-killers
  • Rat-bait and slug poison
  • Antifreeze
  • Paint
  • Certain plants – Holly, Lillies, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Poinsettia, Ivy and Sweet Pea
  • Paracetemol and other human medications
  • Tea-tree oil
  • Flea spot-on products for Dogs that contain Permethrin

 

 

If your kitten has eaten or come into contact with any of the above products, please contact us immediately.

Finally once your kitten is settled into your home, sit back and enjoy the show -they’ll be climbing the curtains in no time !

 

 

 

 

 

Feliway and Adaptil.

Loud bangs, fireworks and other scary noises

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Fireworks are a particular problem for many dogs, and can cause severe anxiety in some. Here are a few ideas that may help in dogs that are scared of loud noises.

 

Dog den.

How to help make your dog feel safe during fireworks season.

 

  • Give your dog a safe area to go to such as a crate or cupboard under the stairs, and provide plenty of bedding to allow him to burrow in.
  • Leaving a loud radio or turn the television up  can help also, or play classical music.
  • Use dog pheromones – a spray , plug in diffuser or collar are available which emit a scent that reassures and calms the dog. This is called DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) and can be purchased at the veterinary surgery. The plug in diffuser should be placed near the safe area.  Your dog can also wear a DAP collar, so that the calming scent accompanies him if he moves around.

  • Dog appeasing pheromone
  • Ensure that your dog does not get extra attention when acting in a frightened manner. This can make the problem worse in that he may think that by acting frightened he will get more attention. You should continue with your normal routine, and only give him reward with attention after he has calmed down.
  • Provide toys or chews as a distraction.
  • Take your dog out early to toilet before the fireworks begin.
  • Close the curtains, and put on lights to reduce flashes from the fireworks.
  • It is possible to try to desensitize your pet to noises, by using various CD’s such as Sounds Scary, or soundtherapy4pets.co.uk , which start off by playing noises at low volume and gradually increasing the volume. This can take many weeks or months and is best started early in the year well before bonfire night.
  • Occasionally sedatives may be required for dogs that become extremely distressed, but an appointment with the vet would be needed to discuss this.
Feliway and Adaptil.

We have a full range of Feliway and Adaptil products available.

Black and white dog.

10 interesting dog facts

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chihuahua puppies

chihuahua puppies

 

Every pet dog from the tiny Chihuahua to the  Great Dane, is born with the heart of a wolf. They are the domesticated version of the gray wolf and show the greatest variation of any species on the planet. Our dogs offer us protection, companionship, and loyalty not to mention being pleased to see us in the morning!

Fact 1:
A dog’s nose is not just used for smelling, but also to keep him cool.

Fact 2:
Humans have kept dogs as pets for over 12,000 years.

Fact 3:
Smaller breeds mature faster than larger breeds.

Fact 4:
A canine’s heart beats up to 120 times per minute.

Fact 5:
A puppy is born blind, deaf and toothless.

Fact 6:
The oldest reliable age recorded for a dog is 29 years.

Fact 7:
The average canine lives 8 to 15 years.

Fact 8:
Puppies sleep ninety percent of the day for their first few weeks.

Fact 9:
The Chihuahua was named after the state in Mexico where they were discovered.

Fact 10:
The basenji is the only breed that cannot bark.

Tips on choosing a healthy kitten

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How to choose your  kitten

kitten vets

Cats are fast becoming the most popular household pet, with around 19% of households in the UK owning a cat, that’s 8.5 million cats in the UK alone. Cats make amazing companions, but are a big responsibility, so before getting a cat or kitten an owner needs to make sure they can be committed to the cat for the rest of its life which on average is 15 years.

 

 

  • The basics:

 

 

So how do you find  a healthy kitten? As a rule kittens should be at least 8 weeks old before they leave their mother. Kittens that leave their mother younger than this are more prone to behavioural problems. They should also be inquisitive and not shy away from people. Try making a noise (dropping keys) and see the reaction from the kittens, they may jump, but shouldn’t run and hide. Also look for a kitten with a nice temperament that approaches you, likes being stroked and picked up.

 

 

  • In terms of health:

 

 

Bright eyes. Kitten’s eyes should be clear and bright, some kittens can have runny eyes. Usually this is a simple problem that can be cleared up by medication, but it’s still something to think about.

 

 

Normal breathing. Kittens that cough, sneeze, or show other respiratory issues are doing so because they’re sick. Usually this is flu, but sometimes it can be more serious.

 

 

A healthy weight. You want a kitten with a bit of fat on its body and good muscle tone. Skinny kittens where the bones can be seen can have serious problems, but also bloated bellies can be a sign of worms.

 

 

Lots of Energy. Kittens should be full of energy and show an interest in playing with toys and with other litter mates.

 

 

Has a clean tail end. Check under the tail too! There shouldn’t be any blood, diarrhoea, or any other nasty-looking problems.

 

 

A healthy coat. A major sign of a healthy cat is a shiny, thick coat. An unhealthy coat may look dull, feel thin, or even have bald spots. Also check the coat for fleas as these are common in kittens and a severe infestation can cause anaemia.

 

 

Ears. Check the kittens ears, they should be clear and clean. Dark brown deposits can be a sign of mites and this can normally be treated by a trip to the vets.

 

 

 

  • The most popular breed of cat is the Domestic Shorthair Cat or “Moggy” which has many different colours, the most common are black, ginger, tortoiseshell and tabby. Did you know that tortoiseshell cats are always female? There are many different pedigree breeds, which  have  a range of different personalities and sizes, some of which are listed below:

 

 

 

  • Persian
  • Siamese
  • Burmese
  • Birman
  • Ragdoll
  • British Shorthair
  • Russian
  • Oriental
  • Maine coon
  • Bengal

 

 

 

For a full list and more information on specific breeds please visit: http://www.icatcare.org/advice/cat-breeds

 


 

 

Small kitten.

Getting a kitten part 1

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How to choose your  kitten

kitten vets

Cats are fast becoming the most popular household pet, with around 19% of households in the UK owning a cat, that’s 8.5 million cats in the UK alone. Cats make amazing companions, but are a big responsibility, so before getting a cat or kitten an owner needs to make sure they can be committed to the cat for the rest of its life which on average is 15 years.

The basics:

As a rule kittens should be at least 8 weeks old before they leave their mother. Kittens that leave their mother younger than this are more prone to behavioural problems. They should also be inquisitive and not shy away from people. Try making a noise (dropping keys) and see the reaction from the kittens, they may jump, but shouldn’t run and hide. Also look for a kitten with a nice temperament that approaches you, likes being stroked and picked up.

In terms of health:

Bright eyes.

Kitten’s eyes should be clear and bright, some kittens can have runny eyes. Usually this is a simple problem that can be cleared up by medication, but it’s still something to think about.

Normal breathing.

Kittens that cough, sneeze, or show other respiratory issues are doing so because they’re sick. Usually this is flu, but sometimes it can be more serious.

A healthy weight.

You want a kitten with a bit of fat on its body and good muscle tone. Skinny kittens where the bones can be seen can have serious problems, but also bloated bellies can be a sign of worms.

Lots of Energy.

Kittens should be full of energy and show an interest in playing with toys and with other litter mates.

Has a clean tail end.

Check under the tail too! There shouldn’t be any blood, diarrhoea, or any other nasty-looking problems.

A healthy coat.

A major sign of a healthy cat is a shiny, thick coat. An unhealthy coat may look dull, feel thin, or even have bald spots. Also check the coat for fleas as these are common in kittens and a severe infestation can cause anaemia.

Ears.

Check the kittens ears, they should be clear and clean. Dark brown deposits can be a sign of mites and this can normally be treated by a trip to the vets.

 

The most popular breed of cat is the Domestic Shorthair Cat or “Moggy” which has many different colours, the most common are black, ginger, tortoiseshell and tabby. Did you know that tortoiseshell cats are always female? There are many different pedigree breeds, which  have  a range of different personalities and sizes, some of which are listed below:

 

  • Persian
  • Siamese
  • Burmese
  • Birman
  • Ragdoll
  • British Shorthair
  • Russian
  • Oriental
  • Maine coon
  • Bengal

 

For a full list and more information on specific breeds please visit: http://www.icatcare.org/advice/cat-breeds

 

Part 2 will discuss what to do once your kitten is home.